My wife and I spent 5 nights at Caneel Bay, first timers. We were a bit concerned because of some of the bad reviews here, but went on intrepidly anyway.
In retrospect, we decided that people's bad experiences were due to 3 facts: (1) This is in a National Park. There are bugs and wild animals around. They're supposed to be there. (2) This is on a remote island. That's part of the point. But everything has to be flown and then boated in, so it will not the cheapest place you ever eat. (3) This is an unbelievably laid-back island. That's part of the point. The laid-back staff returns courtesy and respect with great service and friendly smiles, but they don't deal well with Type-A personalities.
We stayed in the cheaper garden view section. It was very convenient, right next to the small but nice 24-hr gym, just above the semi-formal restaurant (Equator), and a quick walk to the main compound. Room was beautiful, with a view of trees and flowers, and the tennis courts below. Bedroom was air conditioned, but bathroom was not, with vents to the outside near the ceiling. That was actually neat, because the wild donkeys serenaded Sara during her morning shower; it was like a mix of camping and resorting.
Rented a jeep the first day, saw the whole island, driving up the north shore and back the central road. Great fun. Skinny Legs beach bar on the east side has awesome hamburgers, with a Jimmy Buffett-like attitude ("Same-day Service guaranteed".)
Group taxis (pickup trucks with rows of seats in the bed) are always available at the resort's taxi stand, $5 flat fee each way into town. Several good restaurants there, making a nice break from the good but not great food at Equator on site.
Aquatic center will loan you snorkeling gear all week free of charge, which you can take offsite to Trunk Bay or wherever. On site we snorkeled from Caneel Beach around to Turtle Bay, and saw sea turtles and stingrays and a gazillion beautiful fish, never wandering too far from shore. Afternoon tea was offered each evening at the Turtle Bay pavillion, which made for a very pleasant end to the aquatic day.
We had a couples massage, which entailed the masseuse teaching us how to massage each other. Highly recommended, (assuming your relationship is good!).
All in all, we had a wonderful time. If you like places in natural, less-than-fully-tamed settings, and are looking for a slow-paced vacation with beautiful beaches and mind-blowing snorkeling, we think you'll like Caneel Bay, too.






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