We recently returned from a 3 night stay at Hotel de la Place des Alpes. This was our fifth vacation trip to Paris. If someone else had told us we could have a really enjoyable double room in a cool untouristy neighborhood for 58 euros per night, I'd say "where's the catch?" Well--no catch.
Front desk and service staff were friendly and helpful (but be sure to have at least some French phrases at your disposal). Our room (#103) was a marvel of engineering. Small, yes, but we've stayed in smaller for more money. Comfortable double bed, decent storage and French windows that open to the relatively quiet neighborhood on 2 sides. The entry door opens at an angle and barely misses the knob to the tiny but spotless toilet. The shower is in a separate space several feet away--also tiny but thoughtfully fitted out (best shower arrangement in our 2 weeks in 4 cities throughout France). The best was the neighborhood boulangerie directly under our window. We opened the window in the morning, and, if heaven has a smell, I think that's it. We never ate breakfast in the hotel because that smell pulled us like a magnet (for a couple of euros, truly fine pastries so ample we could hardly finish). Also, if you're in the mood for a picnic lunch or such, there's a perfect charcuterier/grocery across the way on Vincent Auriol.
The Place d'Italie metro stop is one and a half blocks away, and with 3 lines it gets you anywhere in the city no sweat. Scads of affordable, friendly and very good restaurants where you can eat with the locals in the Butte aux Cailles area about 10 blocks away.
Previously we've always stayed in the 5th arr. because of course that's where all the cool stuff is. This is in the 13th--just south, so walking up the Blvd, des Gobelins to the Rue Mouffetard was like experiencing a whole new Paris without the tourist crunch.
If it's your first trip to Paris, think twice about staying here as you have to know your way around town to reap the benefits. But if you know the city and like to save money while having fun, we think this is a champ.









