My previous stay at legendary Oustau de Baumaniere was back 8 years ago. My partner and I are just back from a 2-night cebration stay.
Reading some of the previous reviews, I wondered if they all regarded the same place.
Travelling in luxury hotels is my thing. This place is certainly not the most modern, the most luxurious, the hippest, the coolest, the hottest, the grandest, the remotest. Neither it is the best appointed, the most staffed, the best featured. However, it is one of those where I feel SO lucky to stay, where the scenery is so pretty, that I just feel wonderful and relaxed. Enjoying the minute.
First of all, the main buildings dates back from the 16C. Second, it has been operated by the same family since the early 50s. It improved, expanded, got modernized on a regular basis. This is just to explain that no two rooms are alike, and no business feature should be expected.
Once this said, all famous (really famous) people, not wannabees, have flocked to Baumaniere for the last 50+ years, and they loved it. Here, this is old-world money ; there is no one to be impressed by too much, too young money, if I can make this point.
SETTINGS : At the bottom of Val d'Enfer canyon, it is only a 5 minute walk to the old village of Les Baux. A steep walk, though ! Beautiful view over the village, up left, and Val d'Enfer down towards Arles. All rooms must have a nice view. Beautifully manicured grounds and gardens, included the car park, concealed behind the shop. Fairly large swimming pool, not heated in winter.
ROOM : we were staying in room 4, in the main building. Nice decor, with french windows opening onto a pretty large private terrace, with loungers, chairs, and a table. Surronded by the old village of Les Baux, sweeping view over the rocks and bushes of Val d'Enfer. Design of the room updated, aiming to the scenery outside. Old tiles on the floor. Decent amenities included ample storage and LCD TV set. Clear downfall however was the bathroom : although everything was perfectly working, the style was 20-year-old, and cheap. Separate toilet and Porthault bathrobe far from making it up. Rate was 270 euros. Not cheap by any standards, not a rip-off, expecting all the above. Spring and summer are 30% more expensive.
We visited room 7, at the other end of the same building : 20% more expensive, 100% better although the terrace a less than half the size of #4's, with a really breathtaking bathroom. We have booked it for for next stay in august.
BREAKFAST : we ordered room service. A continental fare, billed 21 euros. Homemade breads and croissants are extremely good. Yogurt, fruits, and freshly squeezed orange juice. They refill whatever you request.
CHECK-IN/OUT : smooth and quick. They request a deposit of 50% of the stay at reservation, which is quite rare in France.
SERVICE : smiling. Dedicated. Not always overly efficient. My request for a DVD player could not be met on the first night. Although I gave them a reminder the next morning, it was not there in late afternoon, and it tool a whime to get it - at last.
I wanted to order a cake from the restaurant to take away for a New Year dinner. They prepared an amazingly tasty chocolate only cake, that they prepared in a bow with ice for travelling, at a fairly reasonnable price.
RESTAURANT : the place is actually a restaurant with rooms available. It has been famous for decades. Featuring 3 Michelin stars for 30 years, it has only 2 since 1989. I have been to most of 3-Michelin-star restaurants in France, and many in Europe.
I must honestly say that we enjoyed a very, very good dinner. Not up to Ducasse, for sure. Just damn good. The signature crust leg of lamb being not my liking, they obliged and prepared it in a slightly different way. Starter of egg and truffle was amazing. Pre-starter of leek-foie gras-truffle ravioli was just out of this world, and left is speechless.
Mind the previous reviewer, the guy with a chef outfit who can be seen in the dining room is the owner, not the chef. He used to be the chef, but he hired one some years ago.
Service is caring and smiling and helpful. No attitude here. Not stuffy. They want you to spend a nice time.
Talking of spending, the place is really expensive. Dinner for 2 with 2 glasses of Prestige champagne, half a bottle of reasonable wine set us 440 euros, and that was not with the most expensive fares. You sure pay for the ingredients (truffle, foie gras), the service, and the place. We felt it was expensive, not a rip-off.
OTHERS : they have a shop. Now, that is a big joke. It is not a signature shop. More like a designer shop, unrelated to the hotel and what you find in it. What is the point of buying here things that can be found everywhere (Bed Bath Beyond) at a fraction of the price ? None in my opinion. On top of it, it is horrendously expensive. Who wants to pay a ridiculous $330 for a bathrobe, $150 for an electric pepermill, and $50 for a lavender sachet ?
You'll understand I love the place. Nowhere close to a bargain, I think I get my money worth. And I can't wait t return and enjoy it another time.
















