With various friends I've stayed in several Rheinland hotels. While Schoenberg in nearby Oberwesel is still my favorite, we absolutely LOVED Schloss Rheinfels. Though the castle itself is largely a ruin (blame the French), a portion that was spared now features airy, comfortable rooms, many overlooking the Rhein. Breakfast is my favorite meal and the folks at Rheinfels outdid themselves. Their dazzling buffet was the bomb! One major incongruency was the pool in the cellar, but that didn't stop us from enjoying it after a day of hiking down to the village and back. (We wondered if the Rhenisch knights had armored Speedos?) Our room overlooked the village of St. Goar--at which we arrived via the K-D Line's 1913 sidewheeler "Goethe" from Koblenz--and had a modern bathroom with tub and shower. Both the room and the bathroom were spotless. Hotel guests are bidden to tour the castle ruin, which is a really fun adventure. They advise visitors take along a flashlight and they're not kidding. Several of the passages burrowed deep into the ground and are not illuminated. What a delight to be held responsible for ourselves. We're so spoiled in the U.S. that were this an American site, it would've been ruined with flourescent floodlights, steel handholds, and we would've been hand-led by a guide. Much more fun to explore at our own pace, linger a while, get lost, find our way again, relax and enjoy. We enjoyed the little museum in part of the castle that has been renovated, and in the gift shop bought a 19th-century engraving of the castle above Kaub, where I've also stayed. Would I stay at Rheinfels again? You betcha, and I've just recommended it to a buddy who's traveling with three young 'uns ages 10-16, plus his older parents, who are in their late 70s. I know all will have a blast!
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