If you are like me and, wherever possible, stay in a four star, historical, boutique hotel, then the Orient Guest House is for you.

The Bastakiya historical quarter, where the Guest House is located, is very nice, although perhaps a little too "Vogue Living". Since restoration, it lacks the centuries old authenticity of (say) the medinas of the cities of Morocco. On the other hand, it also lacks the pollution and the grime! Also, though airbrushed, it is uniquely historical for Dubai.

Bastakiya is close to the creek and the abra public boats, which are a very atmospheric way of getting across to the commercial district (including the souks and some of the nicer, less garish shopping centres, with Al Ghurair being particularly nice). The captain of your abra will also take you on a creek tour, with the boat to yourself, for a modest 100 dirhams.

The only thing that is remote is the Jumeirah beach area, but a taxi ride to the lovely Bahri Bar (in the plush but surprisingly informal / relaxed Madinat hotel, with a wonderful view of the Burj al-Arab) is not too exorbitant and more than enough for a beach hater like me.

The Guest House itself has the feel of a traditional Arabian riad. It is small, but surprisingly private. I suspect when the Guest House is full, the noise from the courtyard, where people eat breakfast and mingle, may intrude into your room. In this situation, the more expensive rooms may be preferable, as they have a separate courtyard to themselves. If you're not after a swim, the roof is the perfect place to sunbathe, with coffee, cold water and some fruit cheerily brought to you by staff.

Breakfast is tasty and the staff extremely friendly, with nothing being too much trouble. What's more you really have the best of both worlds. The Guest House is a companion hotel of the Arabian Courtyard Hotel, which is about 5 minutes away. As a visitor to the Guest House, you have full access to the facilities of the Courtyard. It is a proper 4 star hotel with pool, gym, beautician (with an excellent male masseuse from Egypt whose name I forget), several pubs / bars (including a bizarre but enjoyable girly Indian dancing bar where the performers remain on stage and fully clothed!) and a nice, if somewhat pricey, Indian restaurant.

The Guest House is not cheap, but infinitely better than staying a discounted hotel in Deira (which I found interesting to walk through, but far too scrappy to stay in), and a much better way of getting a feel for Dubai than lying on the beach in Jumeirah admiring the Burj al-Arab and the Arabian sea.

A brief postcript. For those keen to experience the desert as a landscape, rather than a place to oppress and in which to be oppressed by a dune bashing 4 wheel drive, I would suggest you splash out and stay a night or so at the Bab al Shams oasis hotel. A much more peaceful way to appreciate the magnificence of the desert, no matter how enjoyable the post dune bashing camel ride and desert dinner!

I hope you enjoy the Orient Guest House and the impressive city of Dubai as much as I did!