The mixed reviews that Losari gets on TripAdvisor left me booking just two nights. But within a few minutes of arriving we decided that we should add an extra night to the stay.
The great appeal is the setting; a small working coffee plantation strewn with renovated and salvaged buildings. The estate has colonial buildings; now the club house and the billiard bar and the rescued station building that serves as the reception. The villas are found all over the estate beside moss-covered sunken roads.
The main buildings and the infinity swimming pool look down a valley, where the canopy has been cut away, and towards two towering volcanoes. These eluded us for much of the time behind haze and cloud (the rains have been a little late in departing this year) but cannot fail to impress when they appear.
The grounds are heavily groomed and fall away to the plantations themselves where you can tour the coffee varieties, sample the crop, visit the vegetable garden or wander further afield into the local villages and down to the paddies in the valley.
I don't think I've ever been to such a picturesque hotel. The website really under-sells this.
We'd booked an Arum Villa (best price we found was UKP140 B&B on Asia Rooms). We got a large main room, tables and day bed separated from a massive bed by a beautiful carved and painted screen. There was a dressing area, a toilet and a long bathroom (all wood, two copper sinks, and a double mosaic bath with massive sunflower shower head above). The outdoor terrace had a table and a day bed, and a view over the plantation towards cloud-shrouded volcanoes. Overall the fittings were quite stunning. Flowers were changed as they began to wilt, and a new mound of petals appeared for the bath every morning. The only downside was the rumble of heavy traffic from the main Jogja-Semarang road that runs unseen through the valley below and to the west of the plantation.
I didn't see inside any other villa so we may just have been lucky in what we got. The website is pretty unhelpful in helping you decide which are the nice ones. From the outside they varied immensely in their design, in their views and the level of isolation. Only the main villa had its own pool.
The food was a bit pedestrian - but that was our experience at almost all the hotels we ate in, including Amanjiwo. The spicing seemed massively toned-down for visitors, though one of the waiters suggested that we join him for some real Indonesian food in the staff canteen. That said, the breakfast buffet was good; enlivened by the early morning yoga session and the volcanic views, and the evening meals came with quite a variety of live music. Afternoon tea was free, a bit basic but sumptuously comfortable on the day beds.
I cannot fault the staff; I think every single person I meet, including those weeding the coffee shrubs, greeted me.
The hamman in the spa was authentic and impressive. And the treatments we had were competent, friendly and professional. Not cheap though.
Liked:
The setting
The buildings
The spa
The staff
Disliked:
The road noise




Value
Rooms



Value
Service
Check in / front desk


