Petra is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but maybe that honour should be reconsidered. We were at Petra at the end of May, on a rather warm day. Walking down through the Siq early in the morning was pleasant enough, although the occasional horse and cart would come tearing by spoiling the mood. At that stage, one elderly man with a broom and pan, was enough to keep the road clean.
Before long one comes to the crack at the end of the gorge, through which one catches a glimpse of the pink walls of the Treasury. You may gasp, because at that moment it is quite breathtaking. Then you emerge into the small square, filled with vendors trying to sell you a camel or donkey ride to the next site, and before you even get to look at the Treasury itself, the sense of wonder is gone. In any case, once you actually walk into the Treasury and have sized it up for the photos, you may feel as we did - so what's all the fuss about!
You walk down to the bottom of the valley pursued by kids who ought to be in school, but are trying to make a quick dinar or dollar from renting out their miserable ill-kept donkeys to overweight tourists. You watch every step carefully because here the camels and donkeys are defecating in the only path along which you can walk. And as the day warms up, the stench and filth becomes overwhelming. A visit to the inside of the Royal Tombs is almost unbearable, because it would seem these are used as toilets by both the local bedouin and visitors alike, and the stench of urine is quite overpowering.
Public toilet facilities are sadly lacking to cope with the enormous number of tourists visiting the site everyday. There is absolutely nowhere to sit and escape the heat unless you are prepared to pay through the nose to sit and have a drink in one or other pathetic excuse for a 'café'.
Having taken your photos of the various sites, the theater, the Roman ruins, the various tombs and so on, it is time to walk back up to the top through the Siq. By now the path is positively treacherous with animal droppings and that poor old man with the broom and pan has long given up on keeping the road clean. In the afternoon, as the heat intensifies, the horse drawing the carriage has to bear the load usually of three people including the driver who is whipping the poor beast mercilessly. But what does the over-bloated tourist care! And as soon as the load is dropped the beast is turned around - and I saw no horse being watered at this point - and must return to the Treasury to pick up the next lot of tourists.
There is something deeply disturbing about this whole scenario and no justificaiton for the abuse these beasts of burden must endure. Just to make a few extra dinar?
As for Petra - one day was more than enough for us. So we never saw the Monastery. Petra cannot hold a candle to any monument in Egypt, be it the Temple of Karnak at Luxor, Abu Simbel or the wondrous Pyramids of Giza. It does not excite the imagination like Tikal in the jungle of Guatemala, or the amazing colossal sites of Angkor Wat or Angkor Thom at Siem Reap, Cambodia. There is none of the sense of incredulity one feels when beholding the site of Machu Pichu. Even the Forum and the ruins of the Colosseum in Rome, as familiar and as accessible as they are, hold more wonder reflecting man's achievements.
Petra is carved out of the most simple soft rock and as we speak it is crumbling away from neglect and under the burden of the masses who inhabit the site daily. Still, I would not suggest you rush to see it - it is truly the most overrated site we have ever visited, and we certainly have seen the best.
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